By Arijit Basu ~
How can you miss me when I’m not there? Such seemed to be the teasing of the mist rising from the head of Morro Rock. As we drove off, the squeaking of the sea otters were still lingering in our ears.
The craggy coastline duets with the ocean, as the little dots on the beach keep rearranging themselves. I was waiting for Morro. And it was waiting for me in San Luis Obispo County.
The Central Coast of California, a region steeped in history from a time when its virgin lands were first being discovered and settled. The rolling hills of Paso Robles, the crystal clear waters of Pismo and Morro, and the charm of surf towns littered along the winding stretch of coastline, can make a Hemingway out of you, if you’re not too careful.
The first European land exploration of Alta California, the Spanish Portola expedition, came down Los Osos Valley and camped near today’s Morro Bay on Sept. 8, 1769.
Franciscan missionary and expedition member, Fr. Juan Crespi, noted in his diary, “We saw a great rock in the form of a morro.”
When you arrive at Morro Bay, first be prepared to be engulfed in the misty air wafting in from the Pacific. Driving alongside the coast, you revel in the scene. Motor vehicles and bike enthusiasts alike stop to take a pause and take in the breathtaking view.
You might even imagine the music of The Eagles soaring in the chilly air, painting a musical soundscape to frame some of the greatest sights on the Western Coast.
Indeed, chances are you might be compelled to jot down a line or two in tribute to the panoramic coast you are greeted with, completely unprepared for it’s sheer audacious beauty.
Hence, since the beginning of the 20th Century, the town has been a much sought after destination for beach holidays. Tourism is the city’s largest industry, coexisting with the town’s commercial fishery.
Gulls caw, welcoming you to their abode, as the ocean-kissed air puts pep in your step.
When you see the sign that says, “Welcome to Morro Bay,” your mind switches off and the pleasure zones of your brain kick into overdrive. Fresh seafood from the various restaurants that dot the beach, lure you with the feast that lies ahead. Battered cod, French fries, and tartar sauce served up juicy and fresh to make your taste buds explode with delight, can be had from establishments such as Lil’ Hut Fish & Chips, The Galley and Dorn’s.
As you stroll down the dock side, you see three, giants smiling down at you. You recognize them as the landmarks of Morro Bay — the three stacks, or as the locals fondly call them, “the three fingers.”
They are mainstays of the Dynegy power plant, now closed that provided electricity to California for about 60 years, and serve also as a happening tourist attraction.
You zip along down to Surfer’s Point, where you can see the grace, power and style displayed by avid surfers, both young and older. These aqua men and women steal the show with their exhibition of artistry on their liquid canvases.
You are left humming a Beach Boys tune inadvertently, and rekindle in you the spark of chasing waves on a piece of fiberglass.
When you get your fill of watching these human dolphins, you head back into town to grab a bite to eat. Of course, clam chowder, fish & chips and burgers are the classic fare, and the dining establishments have a wide array of other items to satiate your ocean induced appetite.
Once you have finished the last bite of your delicious meal, it is time to explore the star of Morro. Morro Strand Beach and Morro Rock await.
The town’s most striking feature is Morro Rock, a 576-foot high volcanic rock, which stands at the entrance to the harbor. Originally, it was surrounded by water, but the northern channel was filled in to make the harbor.
It was quarried from 1889 to 1969, and in 1968, it was designated a State Historical Landmark.
You anticipate the approach, as your car tires munch on the gravelly road that leads to Morro Rock. There are scores of tourists and locals already there, getting into the various beachside activities one can indulge in. A young rock band plays lively music. It almost feels like Morro Rock deserves its own theme song, like the WWE Superstars!
You take out your beach chairs and jackets and snacks and settle into a spot by the beach that proffers a splendid view of the end of western civilization.
The Neptune blue Pacific. Upon looking closely, you see figures in black lined up on top of the white crested swells. Surf’s up and what a fine place to catch a few lively waves. As you watch this synchronized dance on the waves, with sometimes the crest leading and other times the surfer, you sense the mountains in the distance muttering their appreciation.
The weather is achingly perfect. It promotes healthy living and indeed, most locals look like they belong effortlessly on the covers of fitness magazines.
As the wind gets colder, you begin to wind up at the beach. It’s time for selfies with the Rock. And what a “rock show” it is! The magnificent rock serves as a great backdrop for some timeless pictures and creates memories that will be indelible.
Making your way back into town you stop to check out the sea otter families that play around in the tranquil waters of Morro Bay Harbor. They love company and happily squeak and shriek to get your attention. People laugh and are immediately at ease with the company of wildlife. This interaction with nature up so close can make even the most hardened soul smile.
In town you can go see the Maritime Museum, where you can tour the DSRV Avalon and U.S. Coast Guard rescue boat on display at the site of the future Maritime Museum of Morro Bay.
Armed with newfound local knowledge, satiated with the sights, sounds and culinary treats of this charming beach town, it is time to head home.
As you drive back out, it’s as if life is smiling back at you. Your spirit is elevated, your heart is light and your feelings of returning to Morro Bay are hot embers glowing in the dark.
As it may stand, like with every returning wave, the desire to go back grows stronger with every passing day. It may be weeks, a month or even several months, but the heart of Morro Bay beats in you forever, and you will return again to witness it’s unending, quintessential Californian miracle.
I guess the coastal air gets a man to reflect, and somewhere, somehow, you’ll make it back… someday.
Arijit Basu is a lecturer at Cal State Bakersfield. He wrote this piece on July 18, 2016.
